Most (male) chefs will tell you that they learned the basics of cooking from their mother or grandmother, so why are there so few women in top positions in the restaurant business? We asked Angela Hartnett how she has progressed in the profession.
How hard is it for a woman to succeed in the macho atmosphere of
a restaurant kitchen? There were headlines all over the world last
year when Anne-Sophie Pic picked up a third Michelin star for her
family's restaurant in Valence (in a kind of role-reversal, she had
actually learned from her father), and in an earlier issue of Yes
Chef! Magazine we featured Annie Féolde of Enoteca
Pinchiorri in Florence, who also has three stars. There are two
more three-star women in Italy, Luisa Valazza of Al Sorisa near
Milan and Nadia Santini of Dal Pescatore at Canetto, near Cremona;
and there are two in Spain: Elena Arzak in San Sebastian and Carme
Ruscadella of San Pau in Barcelona. That's just six in Europe which
is, of course, why they make headlines.
There are no three-star women in the UK (yet), but probably the
highest-profile female chef is Angela Hartnett, who recently left
the Connaught to take on new projects.
Angela Hartnett
"I was the only girl in Gordon Ramsay's kitchen - not from choice,
despite what he says: it's just that there were no women around.
Now there are a lot more. I think it's a lot easier now there are
more restaurants where you don't have to do ridiculous hours.
Generally people are wising up to the fact that even men don't want
to work 18 hours a day six days a week. The salary is getting
better at the beginning, which makes a huge difference and also the
perception of cookery. It used to be the poor man's choice but it
certainly isn't these days - it's a sought-after career."
How did she start?
"I didn't find it difficult to get started - I think I came in at a
time when chefs were short in numbers. I would say the training is
hard, but it's not difficult to get on a course; although I didn't
do any courses I easily found work: as long as you worked hard it
was acceptable. What's difficult is the way your life becomes so
absorbed into cooking and, whatever you say, there's a battle of
the sexes. However far forward we are with women's liberation the
woman does stay at home largely and the man is the breadwinner.
There are a lot of women who wait at home for chefs, but I think
it's more difficult for a man to wait for his girlfriend who's been
working all night."
Advice for aspiring women chefs?
"Kitchens are hot and sweaty and you need physical stamina. I can
work 18 hours, but a guy can do this more easily than a woman. I
suppose I'm guilty to a degree - I'm not going to put a girl on a
physically demanding job straight away, but I'd probably put a man
on there. Subconsciously women always seem to go to pastry and cold
starters initially and it's up to the chef to push them up. Men are
more ambitious. I've always been quite bolshie but you have to be -
people will listen to the one making the most noise! My advice is
to stick at it. Find a kitchen where you can do everything.
Whatever your line of cooking just be the best at it. Stick with a
chef and give at least two years' service."
And the Connaught?
"We grew apart. There was all this nonsense about our not doing
room service - we've done room service since day one. They wanted
to go back to a very traditional way of running food and beverage
and they want a chef solely dedicated to the Connaught. I wanted to
do other things as well, so it was a natural time to part. It's a
lovely hotel and I'll be eternally grateful for the platform it
gave me to launch myself.
"I've got two new places about to open, both backed by Gordon
Ramsay Holdings: York and Albany near Regent's Park in May is going
to be a more relaxed dining experience with a restaurant, bar area,
open kitchen, delicatessen and ten rooms as well, like a boutique
hotel. I've also got Murano, a lovely Italian restaurant in Mayfair
due to open in June."
Yes Chef! would like to congratulate Angela Hartnett on
winning the Cateys Chef Award 2009!